Different Types of Screen Printing Techniques

Screen printing might sound like it’s a straightforward process but there are many print effects that can be achieved with the right technique. The different screen printing methods are used to create a specific look to fit with the style you’re looking for. In order to achieve certain looks, you may need to adjust your artwork file or overall design. Don’t worry, we will take you through those steps!

In this guide, you will find the best T-shirt printing methods explained, exploring how each method works, the process, and the end results. Each of these methods are widely used by screen print shops around the world.

About Screen Printing

Screen printing is one of the most popular, established, and widely used amongst print shops. The process involves using screens to apply ink to apparel and other various materials. Also known as silkscreen printing, screen printing is a versatile and effective printing method that allows you to produce T-shirts with outstanding quality and a tactile feel. And, because the inks are absorbed deeply into the fabric, it is possible to achieve vivid, bright colors and maximum durability.

This is one of the most traditional methods of T-shirt printing, with experts believing it dates back as far as ancient China. However, it became popular in the 20th century, when Andy Warhol used the technique to create his iconic Marilyn Monroe portrait. It has since been used to create flatstock such as band posters, art prints, and graphic tees.

What Is The Screen Printing Process?

• Design Creation

  • Screenprint designs are often done using various software such as illustrator. You will want to ensure your file is in the right format before you begin creating your design. Size is very important and you will want to ensure the file can be re-sized according to the print surface.

• File Formatting

  • Vector files are needed to create a perfect print. Vector files are mathematical calculations that create lines and figures on our monitors. Unlike working with pixels, you can expand or minimize these vectors as much as you want, without impacting the quality. As well as being saved as a vector, the artwork must also be separated, with each color on a different layer. This is because, in the screen printing process, each tone is printed using a different screen.

• Screen Preparation

  • The screen needs to be coated with a photosensitive emulsion. This creates the green background you might have seen on a screen printing screen. This is a simple process but must be done carefully to ensure that the liquid is distributed evenly.
    For the photosensitive emulsion to work properly, it must be left to dry in a cool, darkroom. If the emulsion is exposed to light at the wrong time, it could jeopardize the full process.

• Stencil Creation

  • Once the screen is dry, the design is placed on top of it and secured in place using an adhesive. The screen is then placed under a strong source of UV light. The parts of the screen that haven’t been covered with the design will harden, while the rest will remain soft. In effect, the design has now been burned into the emulsion. When the screen is fully dry, the design can be removed using a small brush and water. A negative component of the artwork will be left and the artwork is ready to be printed using the preferred ink and technique to achieve the right look.

• Color Separation

  • If your design features more than one color, the process is repeated so that each color in your design is separated into individual layers on different screens. So, if your design has two colors, you’ll need two screens.

• Application

  • Now that the screen is ready, it’s time to start the actual printing. The T-shirt will be placed in the screen printing machine, with the screen carefully placed on top. The ink will then be placed on top of the screen and evenly distributed across the surface using a squeegee.

Learn more about the life of a screen from The Metropolitan Museum of Art

What Are The Different Types of Screen Printing?

With screen printing, you can create different finishes such as crackle or glow in the dark, but there are also different techniques that can be done to create a specific look for your print. These different techniques are used when you have a specific look in mind or you’re looking for a specific or unique aesthetic.

Spot Color Screen Printing

Spot Color Screen Printing is the most common t-shirt printing method. It uses the stock color of the ink by printing it through the stencil of the screen. It produces a vibrant solid spot of color and creates a thicker layer of ink depending on the ink and mesh count used.

Being it is one of the most beneficial in printing darker garments. It is useful for printing 1 – 4 colors; when you have more spot colors, other printing methods such as the simulated process may be a good option.

Because spot colors layer an infinite amount of colors, they can provide a much more vibrant and detailed print. In addition to the variety of options, spot colors provide much better consistency from print to print. When printing a solid color with process inks, there may be slight variations in the color balance that can affect the color’s consistency. While spot colors may cost a bit more, they can add a lot to your project making the extra cost well worth it in the end. Check “How To Screen Print: Spot Color”.

Halftone Printing

Halftone prints are single or multiple colors in which gradients are printed. These tones can range from solid spots to halftones of the same color. This screen printing method is excellent when you want to achieve the look of multi-color printing without actually doing it. This screen printing method emphasizes the use of shading with tiny dots, pictures can be printed using halftone screen printing and only use one single color to do so.

For example, if you want to get a pink radiant color on your white t-shirt, you can print red on a white shirt and include a 50% gradient. The 50% gradient will mix with the white to give it a pink appearance, all using only one screen and one color. It improves the graphics quality and produces a softer feeling print when printed directly onto the garment. Check “How To Get Started Screen Printing with Halftones”.

Grayscale Printing

Greyscale printing is a great way to print full-color images as one-color grayscales or halftones. Full-color photographs can be printed as a one-color halftone. Full-color drawings containing a complete range of different colors may also be produced employing a one-color halftone.

Typically it’s done in black ink on a light garment, but technically speaking, it can be done in any color ink as desired. The resolution will depend on the lines per inch used in the dot pattern.

The more dots a halftone has, the more detailed the print will look. It is a great cost-effective screen printing technique to print black and white photographs on garments. Watch “Convert a full color image to grayscale for screen printing using halftones”.

HOW IS HALFTONE PRINTING DIFFERENT THAN A GRAYSCALE?

Halftone printing is different than grayscale printing for several reasons. The first is the fact that halftone printing involves using one color to create various shades and portray the desired image as a result. Grayscale printing, on the other hand, is the specific use of gray shades from black and white.

Duotone Printing

Duotone printing, also known as multitone printing, is the combination of two halftones for the same image printed with two colors. First, a black halftone is printed on white tees, and then a second halftone will be printed with color ink.

The color halftone combines with the black halftone to produce a duotone color hue. It gives a retro and cooling effect to the prints on light-color garments and gives a full-color print appearance but at a much less expensive rate. It also produces a softer feel print when printed onto the garment.

This process requires that the press be set up with special inks, usually PANTONE-designated colors, instead of the standard CMYK inks used for process color printing. Check out “Creating and Separating Duotone Images”.

CMYK Printing

CMYK is the oldest, color reproduction, print method. Using cyan, magenta, yellow and black ink, screen printers can print designs on white or light-colored garments. For users skilled in CMYK file preparation, Photoshop, and screen creation, this is still a viable print process for light-colored garments.

CMYK printing is the most complex of all screen printing techniques and should be done on an automatic press. It can be done manually, but for optimum results, you need an automatic t-shirt press.

The printing process combines the above four colors to recreate the original image’s full tonal and color range. Moreover, it is an expensive process. Additionally, CMYK is implemented less because simulated printing is more dominant. Watch “How To Screen Print T-Shirts in CMYK”.

Simulated Process Printing

A simulated printing process is a method used to reproduce almost any image on the market. It does so by overlapping and blending colors in a method similar to CMYK through using halftones and spot colors and/or PMS colors. Essentially, it's a way of taking an image that historically would have been printed via CMYK but instead uses more opaque ink to create a more stable color and production-friendly ink that can print almost any design for any garment.

Moreover, it is most often the process used to print complex images on black-colored garments. Designs that are too difficult to separate in a vector program, raster images, photographs, complex tonal illustrations, are all doable with Simulated Process. Watch “How to Screen Print: Simulated Process”.

Learn more about the different screen printing methods “CMYK vs. Spot Color vs. Simulated Process Printing”.

Author: Irene Floridia - Content Creator

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How To Tie Dye: A Guide in Techniques

Summer is almost here and with 90’s fashion becoming more popular among TikTok’s Gen Zs’ creators, tie-dye is all the rage. If you’re like us and love to scroll on TikTok for hours, you’ve probably come across a couple of tutorials on how to get the perfect tie-dye t-shirt or even sneakers! In this post we’ll take you through the different techniques to get the right result for what you’re trying to achieve.

How To Tie-Dye

We’ll show you different tie-dye techniques on this article that show you how to tie dye like a pro, but here are some tie-dye basics to help set you up for success! Whether you are wondering how to tie dye a T-shirt, how to dye socks or pretty much anything else, here are the basics to get you started.

Supply List:

• Plastic Gloves

• Rubber Bands

• Easy-squeeze bottles with dye powder

• Sealable plastic bad or wrap (for storing your t-shirt while the dye sets)

• Disposable surface cover (like a large trash bag)

• Wire Rack (to avoid your creating from sitting in a pool of dye)

Step 1: Pick your Item

There’s a long list of items you can tie dye, from t-shirts, socks, and sweats to bed sheets, or even shoes! We advise your select an item that is made from 100% natural fibers such as cotton, rayon, or silk. Synthetic fibers like polyester have different fibers that are not as absorbent and this can prevent the dye from dying your items completely.

It is recommended that you wash the item before starting the tie-dying process, especially if the item is new. Some dyes will require you to presoak the fabric in soda ash but with products such as Tulip’s One-Step Dyes, which already has the soda ash mixed into it.

Pro Tip: Do not use fabric softener when pre-washing your fabric. The chemicals in fabric softeners can block dye absorption.

Step 2: Prep the Dye

Some products such as Tulip’s One-Step Dye bottles already have the powder inside, but if you’re using another type of dye, now is the time to set up. Put the powder inside of your easy-squeeze bottles, then add tap water, ensure your nozzle is tightly screwed in and that the cap is on. Shape each bottle thoroughly until the dye powder has dissolved. Wait to mix your dyes until you are ready to apply them.

Pro Tip: Dye left in bottles for more than 72 hours might lose their concentration and may not appear as vibrant after dying.

Step 3: Bind the Item

Lay your damp item or t-shirt out onto a flat surface, make sure the surface has been covered with plastic. We’ll use a t-shirt and the spiral technique as an example, you will find the center of the tee which would be down the middle of the collar, and the section directly under the sleeves. That is your center point for your spiral.

Pinch the fabric in the center and twist the fabric towards the right until the entire shirt is bunched, making a perfect swirl. Use rubber bands to hold the spiraled t-shirt in place by crisscrossing them and creating 6 wedge shapes.

Step 4: Apply the Dye

Using the metal rack, place the t-shirt on to it above a covered surface to avoid making a mess. Wearing your gloves, proceed to apply the dye colors to each wedge created by the rubber bands. Turn the t-shirt and apply the same colors on the back to match the same colors as the other side.

Pro Tip: There’s no wrong way to tie-dye!

Step 5: Let Set

This is the longest step because you will need to let your creation sit for many hours. Place your project into a sealable plastic bag or plastic wrap to keep it damp and let the dye settle. Let your project sit 6 to 8 hours or overnight if you would like to give it some extra time. It’s important for the fabric stays damp while the dye sets, so make sure it’s stored in a cool area.

Step 6: Rinse and Wash

After it has been at least 6 hours and the dye has fully processed, remove the rubber bands and rinse, wash and dry. We recommend you air dry it or follow the instructions on the t-shirt tag.

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7 Best Tie-Dye Techniques & Patterns

Besides this being a fun activity to do with your kids or your friends over some beers, it can also be highly technical with many steps, that if missed, can throw off your design completely.

The Spiral Tie Dye Pattern

This technique is one of the most commonly used and if you’re just getting started this is a good introduction to tie-dying. This technique is simple, pinch the center of the fabric and twist to create folds and then tie with rubber bands strategically then add the dye.

The Reverse Techniques (a.k.a Bleach Tie Dye)

This technique is called reverse or bleach because you’ll need a 100% cotton black fabric and bleach. For this technique, you’ll need to leave your shirt dry and crumple into a tight mound with the rubber bands. There’s no specific pattern to follow, this method is a little looser. Then, mix the bleach in an easy-squeeze bottle to then apply to your fabric. Rotate the fabric as needed while squeezing the bleach into it. Watch as the bleach begins to strip the color of the fabric and gradually remove the rubber bands to then immediately rinse and wash according to instructions.

Once the fabric has been washed, leave it damp and lay it flat on your workstation which should be covered with plastic to avoid making a mess. Then apply the chosen dye colors randomly over the fabric, especially in the lightened sections that were created from the bleach. Once done, put the fabric into a resealable plastic bag and leave it in a cool dry place for 6 to 8 hours. Then rinse and dry.

The Shibori Tie Dye Pattern

This technique is all in the way the fabric is folded. For this technique, we will use a t-shirt as an example. Accordion fold the t-shirt from the bottom edge up towards the collar of the shirt in even folds. Once folded up, starting on the end of the folded shirt, accordion fold it again towards the opposite direction until you reach the other end. Wrap the rubber bands tightly around the folded shirt in each direction, crisscrossing the rubber bands.

Place the folded t-shirt on the rack and begin to squeeze the dye into the fabric on each side. For this technique, indigo blue color dye is usually used. Place the shirt in a sealable plastic bag for 6 to 8 hours or overnight. Once the dye is fully processed, cut away the rubber bands and rinse, wash and dry according to your instruction guide.

The Ice Dye Technique

This technique requires literal ice. The pattern from this technique is very recognizable as it’s one of the most popular. The first step is to damp your fabric in soda ash or the Tulip One-Step tie-dye, then lay your damp fabric out flat on your covered work surface. For this technique, the crumple tie-dye pattern is the most commonly used and worst great, but you can experiment with other patterns you want. After using the rubber bands to bind the fabric, place it on a rack (over a bucket or a bowl is recommended to catch the dye as the ice melts). Then cover the fabric with ice, make sure all of it is covered, the more the better.

After covering the project in ice, sprinkle the dye powder randomly over the ice. The ice will melt and help the dye absorb into the fabric. Depending on where you live and the weather temperature, it could take a while for the ice to melt or not much time at all. If the ice melts quickly, you can then place your project into a sealable bag and allow the dye to set for 6 to 8 hours. If it takes about this long for the ice to melt, it’s time to skip the bag and move on to the next tie-dye step which is rinsing and drying.

The Spider Tie Dye Pattern

For this technique, you will start with a damp fabric and then fold it in half. Pinch the fabric where you would like the center of the spiral to be, then twist until the entire fabric is spiraled. Bind the spiral with three intersecting rubber bands to create six wedge shapes. Apply a different color of dye onto each wedge shape and then carefully flip spiral over and apply the same colors on that side.

Apply black dye to one side of the spiral, completely covering the other colors. Cover with a plastic wrap to keep damp and let it sit for 6 to 8 hours. Then rinse thoroughly and wash separately.

The Kaleidoscope Technique

For this kaleidoscope pattern, you will start with a damp fabric and fold it in half, if using a t-shirt, fold it in half lengthwise and press flat on a tabletop. Pinch the fabric where you would like the center of your first spiral to be, then twist the fabric a few times to create a small spiral.

Maintain the first spiral while pinching another section of the fabric and twist several times to create a second spiral. Then crumble the remaining fabric towards the spirals. Bind the fabric with rubber bands to hold securely. Then make a paper ring to fit around the bound fabric and this will help keep the ice in place when dying.

Instead of adding water to dye bottles to mix, squeeze dye powder of a few colors on top of the ice, then let the ice melt and remove the paper ring. Flip the shirt over and repeat the process on the backside with additional dye powders. Once the backside has been dyed, cut off the rubber bands, then launder according to instructions.

The Firecracker Pattern

Scrunch damp fabric into a tube shape and wrap a rubber band around it at about a third of the way down from the top. Repeat on the bottom third. Add the dye to the top third of the fabric above the rubber bands. Then add Blue dye onto the bottom third of the fabric below the rubber band. Then wrap with plastic and let sit, then rinse and wash accordingly.

The Dip-Dye

Dip-dye (also known as tip dyeing) is a technique that involves dipping the ends of the fabric into dye. Dampen the fabric in preparation for dying then mix the dye of your choice and pour into separate plastic bins of bowls. Dip one side of the fabric into the first color, then squeeze out any excess dye back into the container. Dip the other side of the fabric into the second dye color making sure both dyes don’t touch. Lay the fabric flat on a rack and cover it in plastic wrap. Then let it sit for 6 to 8 hours. Rinse, wash, and dry.

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Brand Spotlight:

LXIX Apparel

While we at Family Industries do not do this type of customization, we have done projects with tie-dye by having help from LXIX Apparel which is a tie-dye haus located in Los Angeles and run by Brian Robert Jones, who is the guitarist for the band Vampire Weekend.

LXIX Apparel focuses on creating vibrant tie-dyed apparel from hoodies, and t-shirt, to full sweatsuits. LXIX has helped us with projects for Urban Farms LA and we have printed for their own brand as well.

Author: Irene Floridia - Content Creator

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For FAQ, check out our site!

For any inquiries, send us a message!

OR

send us an e-mail at quotes@familyindustriesla.com

Our showroom at 2755 Fruitdale Street, Los Angeles, CA 90039 is open by appointment only from 10 am - 4 pm Monday through Friday.

Screen Printing 101: Techniques

So you’re wondering what it would take for you to be able to make your own print? or you’re wondering how Family Industries makes perfect prints? We’ll take you through the steps necessary to achieve a flawless screen print as well as show you how we do it at the Family Industries HQ.

In this article, we will also take you through the different techniques used for specific outcomes and all that will be necessary for you to achieve them which would include equipment and other factors such as time and effort.

How To Get Started

We’ll take you through the fundamental tools you will need to begin this process. Although you can buy ready-to-use kits from websites such as screenprinting.com - you can always find DIY ways to make your own setup.

Check out Create Custom Screen Printing Designs at Home

The Screen

Choosing the right screen mesh can be confusing, a 110 to 160 mesh count screen is the most versatile and the most commonly used in screen printing. We recommend that for prints that are up to 3 colors a 160 (61cm) to 180 (70cm) monofilament mesh screen is best, ensure that they have very well made wood frames that have been purchased with the fabric or mesh already attached (pre-stretched) OR you may also use a metal retentionable screen.

Here’s how to make your own screen

The Press Set-Up

The screen needs to be placed on the press and squared to the shirt board. This is as simple as placing a t-square under the frame and looking through the screen to square the image on the frame to the edge of the board. Now when you make a print it will be straight to the board.

Emulsion

A big part of the photostencil phase of the production cycle, screen printing emulsion is the light-sensitive liquid or capillary-direct films that you coat or adhere to the degreased screen fabric prior to taping your film positives in place.

There are a few choices to pick from when it comes to getting the right emulsion and it has to do with certain variables. Learn about what type of emulsion you will need according to your setup and experience level.

The Ink

Most inks on the market are too thick to print easily by hand and they generally need a slight amount of reduction – or thinning – to make it work better. Thinning does not mean making it softer it means adding a curable reducer rather than a "soft hand" additive. A small amount of reducer will make the ink more workable.

If your print is a three-color print, it is recommended to thin the lightest colors a little more than the darker colors. This will generally be the first color in your print and it needs to penetrate into the garment more than the others, this way, it will not pick it up on the bottoms of the other screens. If black is your last color, you can thin it less. It needs to lay on top of the other colors and it will blend in with the under colors if it is too thin.

Plastisol ink tends to get a little thicker when it isn't in use, so you should always stir the ink before you begin thinning it. By stirring the ink you will find out if it really needs thinner. We recommend an ink that is smooth and creamy to one that is so thick that you break the stick trying to stir it.

The Squeegee

We highly recommend a triple durometer squeegee that has a harder center around a softer outer edge. These give you more control, especially if you have a lot of strength and try to flatten the blade as you make the print (you don't want to flatten the blade). You can also pick up an "old-fashioned" medium hardness blade with a sharp edge and make a great print. A sharp edge shears off the ink cleanly and will make a sharper print than a dull edge blade. If you are a messy printer, you should use the wider 5" handles. These will help keep your fingers out of the ink.

Choose the right squeegee for your screen print job

Techniques

There are technical applications we recommend and we’ll go over details as to how to print once you have your equipment all set up and ready to go.

How Much Ink Should I Use?

Depending on how you work, knowing how much ink to use takes time and practice. Some people have a heavy pour but they are able to manage the printing process to avoid making a mess, while others tend to be a little less coordinated. The rule of thumb is to pour enough to get a good amount of prints without running dry, but not so much that when you print it all rides up onto the squeegee handle. It is much easier to put more ink on a screen and harder to take the excess out! Start off with a small amount and work your way up to learning how much is really needed and how much you can handle.

How Do I Hold The Squeegee?

Top Grip:

A lot of printers use the standard “two-hand, top grip and pull towards you” stroke. While this works well, it can cause some problems if you are printing all day long. Not only will the tips of your fingers and thumbs be sore (and may become numb) you may also feel tenderness in your wrists. What this could cause is a repetitive motion disorder known as Carpal Tunnel Syndrome.

Some people can print their whole lives and never get this but to minimize the chances of developing Carpal Tunnel, you can use special ergonomic squeegees that force you to hold a wider handle.

Side Grip:

This technique moves the strain from the center of your wrist to your forearm muscles. Simply hold the squeegee by the side and pull it towards you. This works great if you are a short person or of average height.

Push or Pull?

The answer to this question is based on preference. Pulling the squeegee towards you is the standard method, but pushing it away from you is really a lot easier. When pulling the squeegee you use more of your wrists and shoulder muscles. When pushing, you use more of your body weight to push the squeegee. We encourage you to try both and figure out what is most comfortable.

How Many Strokes Are Needed?

You really only need one stroke if your ink is diluted enough and you’re printing on a lighter fabric. If the fabric is dark and your ink isn’t sticking as well as you’d like, we encourage you to do two-stroke. If you find that two or three strokes are not doing the job, it may be that your ink is too thick and will need to be diluted a bit more.

How Much Pressure Do I Apply?

We recommend that not a lot of pressure is applied as this can cause the print to be uneven, if the ink is the right consistency then a medium amount of pressure should do the job.

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In Conclusion

Having the right equipment is more than half of the job - buying the equipment and the ink can get expensive, however, if you have a plan and the right design, you can make up the money quickly and begin to profit from your creations.

Practise makes perfect, many techniques can be mastered by just making mistakes and starting over. So, don’t be scared to make errors and having to start over, it’s all part of the process.

Author: Irene Floridia - Content Creator

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For FAQ, check out our site!

For any inquiries, send us a message!

OR

send us an e-mail at quotes@familyindustriesla.com

Our showroom at 2755 Fruitdale Street, Los Angeles, CA 90039 is open by appointment only from 10 am - 4 pm Monday through Friday.